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arXiv · 2306.13447

Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Eytan Meisner·Mariano Galvagno·David Andrade·Dan Liberzon·Raphael Stuhlmeier
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Abstract

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and therefore come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly-nonlinear, synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading, and shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

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Eytan Meisner, Mariano Galvagno, David Andrade, Dan Liberzon, Raphael Stuhlmeier. 2023-06-23. Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections. https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0149980

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