arXiv subjects

A. R. Osborne

Publications and source records attributed to A. R. Osborne.

4 recordsLinked to original sources

arXiv2005

On Deviations from Gaussian Statistics for Surface Gravity Waves

Here we discuss some issues concerning the statistical properties of ocean surface waves. We show that, using the approach of weak turbulence theory, deviations from Gaussian statistics can be naturally included. In particular we discuss the role of bound and free modes for the determination of the statistical properties of the surface elevation. General formulas for skewness and kurtosis as a function of the spectral wave action density are here derived.

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arXiv2003

Extreme waves and modulational instability: wave flume experiments on irregular waves

We discuss the formation of large amplitude waves for sea states characterized by JONSWAP spectra with random phases. In this context we discuss experimental results performed in one of the largest wave tank facilities in the world. We present experimental evidence that the tail of the cumulative probability function of the wave heights for random waves strongly depends on the ratio between the wave steepness and the spectral bandwidth. When this ratio, called the Benjamin-Feir Index, is large the Rayleigh distribution clearly underestimates the occurrence of large amplitude waves. Our experimental results are also successfully compared with previously performed numerical simulations of the Dysthe equation.

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arXiv2002

Instability of two interacting, quasi-monochromatic waves in shallow water

We study the nonlinear interactions of waves with a doubled-peaked power spectrum in shallow water. The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear uni-directional waves in shallow water, i.e. the Korteweg de Vries equation. Using a multiple-scale technique two defocusing coupled Nonlinear Schrödinger equations are derived. We show analytically that plane wave solutions of such a system can be unstable to small perturbations. This surprising result suggests the existence of a new energy exchange mechanism which could influence the behaviour of ocean waves in shallow water.

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arXiv2002

Freely decaying weak turbulence for sea surface gravity waves

We study numerically the generation of power laws in the framework of weak turbulence theory for surface gravity waves in deep water. Starting from a random wave field, we let the system evolve numerically according to the nonlinear Euler equations for gravity waves in infinitely deep water. In agreement with the theory of Zakharov and Filonenko, we find the formation of a power spectrum characterized by a power law of the form of $|{\bf k}|^{-2.5}$.

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