A. V. Kokorina | Searcharxiv

arXiv2022

Nonlinear dynamic pressure beneath waves in water of intermediate depth: Theory and experiment

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different approximations for modulated potential gravity waves. Regular and irregular wave sequences in intermediate depths are considered. The efficiency of different models for reconstruction the pressure field from the known surface displacement time series (the direct problem) is investigated. A new two-component theory for weakly modulated weakly nonlinear waves is proposed showing the best performance among all applied models. Peculiarities of the vertical mode of the pressure second harmonic are discussed.

physics.flu-dyn↗

arXiv2017

Soliton groups as the reason for extreme statistics of unidirectional sea waves

The results of the probabilistic analysis of the direct numerical simulations of irregular unidirectional deep-water waves are discussed. It is shown that an occurrence of large-amplitude soliton-like groups represents an extraordinary case, which is able to increase noticeably the probability of high waves even in moderately rough sea conditions. The ensemble of wave realizations should be large enough to take these rare events into account. Hence we provide a striking example when long-living coherent structures make the water wave statistics extreme.

nlin.PS↗