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John D. Carter

Publications and source records attributed to John D. Carter.

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The Spatial Whitham Equation

The Whitham equation is a nonlocal, nonlinear partial differential equation that models the temporal evolution of spatial profiles of surface displacement of water waves. However, many laboratory and field measurements record time series at fixed spatial locations. In order to directly model data of this type, it is desirable to have equations that model the spatial evolution of time series. The spatial Whitham equation, proposed as the spatial generalization of the Whitham equation, fills this need. In this paper, we study this equation and apply it to water-wave experiments on shallow and deep water. We compute periodic traveling-wave solutions to the spatial Whitham equation and examine their properties, including their stability. Results for small-amplitude solutions align with known results for the Whitham equation. This suggests that the systems are consistent in the weakly nonlinear regime. At larger amplitudes, there are some discrepancies. Notably, the spatial Whitham equation does not appear to admit cusped solutions of maximal wave height. In the second part, we compare predictions from the temporal and spatial Korteweg-deVries and Whitham equations with measurements from laboratory experiments. We show that the spatial Whitham equation accurately models measurements of tsunami-like waves of depression and solitary waves on shallow water. Its predictions also compare favorably with experimental measurements of waves of depression and elevation on deep water. Accuracy is increased by adding a phenomenological damping term. Finally, we show that neither the spatial nor the temporal Whitham equation accurately models the evolution of wave packets on deep water.

physics.flu-dyn

Instability of Near-Extreme Solutions to the Whitham Equation

The Whitham equation is a model for the evolution of small-amplitude, unidirectional waves of all wavelengths on shallow water. It has been shown to accurately model the evolution of waves in laboratory experiments. We compute $2π$-periodic traveling-wave solutions of the Whitham equation and numerically study their stability with a focus on solutions with large steepness. We show that the Hamiltonian oscillates as a function of wave steepness when the solutions are sufficiently steep. We show that a superharmonic instability is created at each extremum of the Hamiltonian and that between each extremum the stability spectra undergo similar bifurcations. Finally, we compare these results with those from the Euler equations.

physics.flu-dyn

The superharmonic instability and wave breaking in Whitham equations

The Whitham equation is a model for the evolution of surface waves on shallow water that combines the unidirectional linear dispersion relation of the Euler equations with a weakly nonlinear approximation based on the KdV equation. We show that large-amplitude, periodic, traveling-wave solutions to the Whitham equation and its higher-order generalization, the cubic Whitham equation, are unstable with respect to the superharmonic instability (i.e. a perturbation with the same period as the solution). The threshold between superharmonic stability and instability occurs at the maxima of the Hamiltonian and $\mathcal{L}_2$-norm. We examine the onset of wave breaking in traveling-wave solutions subject to the modulational and superharmonic instabilities. We present new instability results for the Euler equations in finite depth and compare them with the Whitham results. We show that the Whitham equation more accurately approximates the wave steepness threshold for the superharmonic instability of the Euler equations than does the cubic Whitham equation. However, the cubic Whitham equation more accurately approximates the wave steepness threshold for the modulational instability of the Euler equations than does the Whitham equation.

physics.flu-dyn

Modeling the Second Harmonic in Surface Water Waves Using Generalizations of NLS

When a mechanical wavemaker at one end of a water-wave tank oscillates with a frequency, $ω_0$, time series of downstream surface waves typically include the dominant frequency (or first harmonic), $ω_0$, along with the second, $2ω_0$; third, $3ω_0$; and higher harmonics. This behavior is common for the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves with a narrow band of frequencies centered around the dominant frequency such as in the evolution of ocean swell, pulse propagation in optical fibers, and Langmuir waves in plasmas. Presented herein are measurements of the amplitudes of the first and second harmonic bands from four surface water wave laboratory experiments. The Stokes expansion for small-amplitude surface water waves provides predictions for the amplitudes of the second and higher harmonics given the amplitude of the first harmonic. Similarly, the derivations of the NLS equation and its generalizations (models for the evolution of weakly nonlinear, narrow-banded waves) provide predictions for the second and third harmonic bands given measurements of the first harmonic band. We test the accuracy of these predictions by making two types of comparisons with the experimental measurements. First, we consider the evolution of the second harmonic band while neglecting all other harmonic bands. Second, we use explicit Stokes and generalized NLS formulas to predict the evolution of the second harmonic band using the first harmonic data as input. Comparisons of both types show reasonable agreement, though predictions obtained from dissipative generalizations of NLS consistently outperform the conservative ones. Finally, we show that the predictions obtained from these two methods are qualitatively different.

physics.flu-dyn

The Cubic Vortical Whitham Equation

The cubic-vortical Whitham equation is a model for wave motion on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity in a shallow inviscid fluid. It generalizes the classical Whitham equation by allowing constant vorticity and by adding a cubic nonlinear term. The inclusion of this extra nonlinear term allows the equation to admit periodic, traveling-wave solutions with larger amplitude than the Whitham equation. Increasing vorticity leads to solutions with larger amplitude as well. The stability of these solutions is examined numerically. All moderate- and large-amplitude solutions, regardless of wavelength, are found to be unstable. A formula for a stability cutoff as a function of vorticity and wavelength for small-amplitude solutions is presented. In the case with zero vorticity, small-amplitude solutions are unstable with respect to the modulational instability if kh > 1.252, where k is the wavenumber and h is the mean fluid depth.

physics.flu-dyn

Dissipative models of swell propagation across the Pacific

Ocean swell plays an important role in the transport of energy across the ocean, yet its evolution is still not well understood. In the late 1960s, the nonlinear Schr{ö}dinger (NLS) equation was derived as a model for the propagation of ocean swell over large distances. More recently, a number of dissipative generalizations of the NLS equation based on a simple dissipation assumption have been proposed. These models have been shown to accurately model wave evolution in the laboratory setting, but their validity in modeling ocean swell has not previously been examined. We study the efficacy of the NLS equation and four of its generalizations in modeling the evolution of swell in the ocean. The dissipative generalizations perform significantly better than conservative models and are overall reasonable models for swell amplitudes, indicating dissipation is an important physical effect in ocean swell evolution. The nonlinear models did not out-perform their linearizations, indicating linear models may be sufficient in modeling ocean swell evolution.

physics.ao-ph

Fully dispersive Boussinesq models with uneven bathymetry

Three weakly nonlinear but fully dispersive Whitham-Boussinesq systems for uneven bathymetry are studied. The derivation and discretization of one system is presented. The numerical solutions of all three are compared with wave gauge measurements from a series of laboratory experiments conducted by Dingemans. The results show that although the models are mathematically similar, their accuracy varies dramatically.

physics.flu-dyn

Particle trajectories in nonlinear Schrodinger models

The nonlinear Schrodinger equation is well known as a universal equation in the study of wave motion. In the context of wave motion at the free surface of an incompressible fluid, the equation accurately predicts the evolution of modulated wave trains with low to moderate wave steepness. While there is an abundance of studies investigating the reconstruction of the surface profile $η$, and the fidelity of such profiles provided by the nonlinear Schrodinger equation as predictions of real surface water waves, very few works have focused on the associated flow field in the fluid. In the current work, it is shown that the velocity potential $ϕ$ can be reconstructed in a similar way as the free-surface profile. This observation opens up a range of potential applications since the nonlinear Schrodinger equation features fairly simple closed-form solutions and can be solved numerically with comparatively little effort. In particular, it is shown that particle trajectories in the fluid can be described with relative ease not only in the context of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, but also in higher-order models such as the Dysthe equation, and in models incorporating certain types of viscous effects.

physics.flu-dyn

Stability of Periodic, Traveling-Wave Solutions to the Capillary-Whitham Equation

Recently, the Whitham and capillary-Whitham equations were shown to accurately model the evolution of surface waves on shallow water. In order to gain a deeper understanding of these equations, we compute periodic, traveling-wave solutions to both and study their stability. We present plots of a representative sampling of solutions for a range of wavelengths, wave speeds, wave heights, and surface tension values. Finally, we discuss the role these parameters play in the stability of the solutions.

physics.flu-dyn

A Comparison of Frequency Downshift Models of Wave Trains on Deep Water

Frequency downshift (FD) in wave trains on deep water occurs when a measure of the frequency, typically the spectral peak or the spectral mean, decreases as the waves travel down a tank or across the ocean. Many FD models rely on wind or wave breaking. We consider seven models that do not include these effects and compare their predictions with four sets of experiments that also do not include these effects. The models are the (i) nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS), (ii) dissipative NLS equation (dNLS), (iii) Dysthe equation, (iv) viscous Dysthe equation (vDysthe), (v) Gordon equation (Gordon) (which has a free parameter), (vi) Islas-Schober equation (IS) (which has a free parameter), and (vii) a new model, the dissipative Gramstad-Trulsen (dGT) equation. The dGT equation has no free parameters and addresses some of the difficulties associated with the Dysthe and vDysthe equations. We compare a measure of overall error and the evolution of the spectral amplitudes, mean, and peak. We find: (i) The NLS and Dysthe equations do not accurately predict the measured spectral amplitudes. (ii) The Gordon equation, which is a successful model of FD in optics, does not accurately model FD in water waves, regardless of the choice of free parameter. (iii) The dNLS, vDysthe, dGT, and IS (with optimized free parameter) models all do a reasonable job predicting the measured spectral amplitudes, but none captures all spectral evolutions. (iv) The vDysthe, dGT, and IS (with optimized free parameter) models do the best at predicting the observed evolution of the spectral peak and the spectral mean. (v) The IS model, optimized over its free parameter, has the smallest overall error for three of the four experiments. The vDysthe equation has the smallest overall error in the other experiment.

physics.flu-dyn

Bidirectional Whitham Equations as Models of Waves on Shallow Water

Hammack & Segur (1978) conducted a series of surface water-wave experiments in which the evolution of long waves of depression was measured and studied. This present work compares time series from these experiments with predictions from numerical simulations of the KdV, Serre, and five unidirectional and bidirectional Whitham-type equations. These comparisons show that the most accurate predictions come from models that contain accurate reproductions of the Euler phase velocity, sufficient nonlinearity, and surface tension effects. The main goal of this paper is to determine how accurately the bidirectional Whitham equations can model data from real-world experiments of waves on shallow water. Most interestingly, the unidirectional Whitham equation including surface tension provides the most accurate predictions for these experiments. If the initial horizontal velocities are assumed to be zero (the velocities were not measured in the experiments), the three bidirectional Whitham systems examined herein provide approximations that are significantly more accurate than the KdV and Serre equations. However, they are not as accurate as predictions obtained from the unidirectional Whitham equation.

physics.flu-dyn

On the nonlinear dynamics of the traveling-wave solutions of the Serre system

We numerically study nonlinear phenomena related to the dynamics of traveling wave solutions of the Serre equations including the stability, the persistence, the interactions and the breaking of solitary waves. The numerical method utilizes a high-order finite-element method with smooth, periodic splines in space and explicit Runge-Kutta methods in time. Other forms of solutions such as cnoidal waves and dispersive shock waves are also considered. The differences between solutions of the Serre equations and the Euler equations are also studied.

nlin.PS

Instabilities of one-dimensional stationary solutions of the cubic nonlinear Schrodinger equation

The two-dimensional cubic nonlinear Schrodinger equation admits a large family of one-dimensional bounded traveling-wave solutions. All such solutions may be written in terms of an amplitude and a phase. Solutions with piecewise constant phase have been well studied previously. Some of these solutions were found to be stable with respect to one-dimensional perturbations. No such solutions are stable with respect to two-dimensional perturbations. Here we consider stability of the larger class of solutions whose phase is dependent on the spatial dimension of the one-dimensional wave form. We study the spectral stability of such nontrivial-phase solutions numerically, using Hill's method. We present evidence which suggests that all such nontrivial-phase solutions are unstable with respect to both one- and two-dimensional perturbations. Instability occurs in all cases: for both the elliptic and hyperbolic nonlinear Schrodinger equations, and in the focusing and defocusing case.

nlin.PS

Instabilities in the two-dimensional cubic nonlinear Schrodinger equation

The two-dimensional cubic nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLS) can be used as a model of phenomena in physical systems ranging from waves on deep water to pulses in optical fibers. In this paper, we establish that every one-dimensional traveling wave solution of NLS with trivial phase is unstable with respect to some infinitesimal perturbation with two-dimensional structure. If the coefficients of the linear dispersion terms have the same sign then the only unstable perturbations have transverse wavelength longer than a well-defined cut-off. If the coefficients of the linear dispersion terms have opposite signs, then there is no such cut-off and as the wavelength decreases, the maximum growth rate approaches a well-defined limit.

nlin.PS