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Kostas Belibassakis

Publications and source records attributed to Kostas Belibassakis.

3 recordsLinked to original sources

Explicit wave-averaged primitive equations using a Generalized Lagrangian Mean

The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave-turbulence-mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here an approximate closure is obtained under the hypotheses of small surface slope, weak horizontal gradients of the water depth and mean current, and weak curvature of the mean current profile. These assumptions yield analytical expressions for the mean momentum and pressure forcing terms that can be expressed in terms of the wave spectrum. A vertical change of coordinate is then applied to obtain glm2z-RANS equations (55) and (57) with non-divergent mass transport in cartesian coordinates. To lowest order, agreement is found with Eulerian-mean theories, and the present approximation provides an explicit extension of known wave-averaged equations to short-scale variations of the wave field, and vertically varying currents only limited to weak or localized profile curvatures. Further, the underlying exact equations provide a natural framework for extensions to finite wave amplitudes and any realistic situation. The accuracy of the approximations is discussed using comparisons with exact numerical solutions for linear waves over arbitrary bottom slopes, for which the equations are still exact when properly accounting for partial standing waves. For finite amplitude waves it is found that the approximate solutions are probably accurate for ocean mixed layer modelling and shoaling waves, provided that an adequate turbulent closure is designed. However, for surf zone applications the approximations are expected to give only qualitative results due to the large influence of wave nonlinearity on the vertical profiles of wave forcing terms.

physics.ao-ph

Commentary on `The Three-Dimensional Current and Surface Wave Equations' by George Mellor

The lowest order sigma-transformed momentum equation given by Mellor (J. Phys. Oceangr. 2003) takes into account a phase-averaged wave forcing based on Airy wave theory. This equation is shown to be generally inconsistent due to inadequate approximations of the wave motion. Indeed the evaluation of the vertical flux of momentum requires an estimation of the pressure $p$ and coordinate transformation function $s$ to first order in parameters that define the large scale evolution of the wave field, such as the bottom slope. Unfortunately there is no analytical expression for $p$ and $s$ at that order. A numerical correction method is thus proposed and verified. Alternative coordinate transforms that allow a separation of wave and mean flow momenta do not suffer from this inconsistency nor require a numerical estimation of the wave forcing. Indeed, the problematic vertical flux is part of the wave momentum flux, thus distinct from the mean flow momentum flux, and not directly relevant to the mean flow evolution.

physics.class-ph

Evolution of surface gravity waves over a submarine canyon

The effects of a submarine canyon on the propagation of ocean surface waves are examined with a three-dimensional coupled-mode model for wave propagation over steep topography. Whereas the classical geometrical optics approximation predicts an abrupt transition from complete transmission at small incidence angles to no transmission at large angles, the full model predicts a more gradual transition with partial reflection/transmission that is sensitive to the canyon geometry and controlled by evanescent modes for small incidence angles and relatively short waves. Model results for large incidence angles are compared with data from directional wave buoys deployed around the rim and over Scripps Canyon, near San Diego, California, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX). Wave heights are observed to decay across the canyon by about a factor 5 over a distance shorter than a wavelength. Yet, a spectral refraction model predicts an even larger reduction by about a factor 10, because low frequency components cannot cross the canyon in the geometrical optics approximation. The coupled-mode model yields accurate results over and behind the canyon. These results show that although most of the wave energy is refractively trapped on the offshore rim of the canyon, a small fraction of the wave energy 'tunnels' across the canyon. Simplifications of the model that reduce it to the standard and modified mild slope equations also yield good results, indicating that evanescent modes and high order bottom slope effects are of minor importance for the energy transformation of waves propagating across depth contours at large oblique angles.

physics.ao-ph