arXiv subjects

Nick Pizzo

Publications and source records attributed to Nick Pizzo.

8 recordsLinked to original sources

arXiv2025

The increased drift of steep focusing surface gravity waves

Irrotational and monochromatic surface gravity waves possess a mean Lagrangian drift which transports mass and enhances mixing in the upper ocean. In the ocean, where many surface waves are present, it is commonly assumed that the mean Lagrangian drift can be computed independently for each wave component and summed. Here we show, using laboratory measurements and fully nonlinear simulations of steep focusing wave packets, that this assumption underpredicts the average transport in regions of wave focusing by up to 30%. To explain these enhancements, we derive a new exact method for constraining the local mean Lagrangian drift in general flows by working in the Lagrangian reference frame. From this method, we derive a higher-order expression for the local mean Lagrangian drift in narrow-banded wave fields governed by the nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLSE) that predicts near-surface enhancements when waves focus and steepen. The theoretical predictions of the local transport agree with the experiments, particularly for smaller bandwidth packets where the NLSE approximation is most valid. These findings highlight that it is the local steepness of the wave field, not just the sum of the steepnesses of the linear (non-interacting) wave components, which sets the strength of these enhancements.

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arXiv2025

The role of Lagrangian drift in the generation of surface waves by wind

A nonlinear stability analysis entirely in the Lagrangian frame is conducted, revealing the fundamental role of the wave-induced mean flow in modifying further wave growth and providing new insight into the classic problem of wave generation by wind. The prevailing theory, a critical-layer resonance mechanism proposed by Miles (1957), has seen numerous refinements; yet, the role of Lagrangian drift -- the velocity a fluid parcel actually experiences -- in wave growth was not understood. Our analysis first recovers the classic Miles growth rate from linear theory before extending it to third order in the wave slope to derive a modified growth rate. The leading-order wave-induced mean flow alters the higher-order instability, manifesting as a suppression of growth with increasing wave steepness for the realistic wind profiles considered. This result is qualitatively consistent with observations. An integral momentum budget suggests that the wave-induced current alters the coupling between the total phase speed and the total Lagrangian mean flow at the critical level (as defined in the linear theory), thereby reducing the efficiency of momentum transfer. Notably, this Lagrangian drift is precisely what Doppler-shift based remote sensing of upper ocean currents measure, providing a direct observational pathway to account for this wave-induced feedback in studies of air-sea coupling. More broadly, this approach provides a new methodology for analyzing shear instabilities in general and a direct path towards refining wind-stress parameterizations.

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arXiv2024

Exact planetary waves and jet streams

We investigate exact nonlinear waves on surfaces locally approximating the rotating sphere for two-dimensional inviscid incompressible flow. Our first system corresponds to a beta-plane approximation at the equator and the second to a gamma approximation, with the latter describing flow near the poles. We find exact wave solutions in the Lagrangian reference frame that cannot be written down in closed form in the Eulerian reference frame. The wave particle trajectories, contours of potential vorticity and Lagrangian mean velocity take relatively simple forms. The waves possess a non-trivial Lagrangian mean flow that depends on the amplitude of the waves and on a particle label that characterizes values of constant potential vorticity. The mean flow arises due to potential vorticity conservation on fluid particles. Solutions over the entire space are generated by assuming that the flow far from the origin is zonal and there is a region of constant potential vorticity between this zonal flow and the waves. In the gamma approximation a class of waves are found which, based on analogous solutions on the plane, we call Ptolemaic vortex waves. The mean flow of some of these waves resemble polar jet streams. Several illustrative solutions are used as initial conditions in the fully spherical rotating Navier-Stokes equations, where integration is performed via the numerical scheme presented in Salmon and Pizzo (2023). The potential vorticity contours found from these numerical experiments vary between stable permanent progressive form and fully turbulent flows generated by wave breaking.

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arXiv2024

Deep flows transmitted by forced surface gravity waves

We examine a two-dimensional deep-water surface gravity wave packet generated by a pressure disturbance in the Lagrangian reference frame. The pressure disturbance has the form of a narrow-banded weakly nonlinear deep-water wave packet. During forcing, the vorticity equation implies that the momentum resides entirely in the near-surface Lagrangian-mean flow, which in this context is often called the ``Stokes drift''. After the forcing turns off, the wave packet propagates away from the forcing region, carrying with it most of the energy imparted by the forcing. These waves together with their induced long wave response have no momentum in a depth integrated sense, in agreement with the classical results of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1962) and McIntyre (1981). The total flow associated with the propagating packet has no net momentum, in agreement with the classical results. In contrast with the finite-depth scenario discussed by McIntyre (1981), however, momentum imparted to the fluid during forcing resides in a dipolar structure that persists in the forcing region -- rather than being carried away by shallow water waves. We conclude by examining waves propagating from deep to shallow water and show that wave packets, which initially have no momentum, may have non-zero momentum in finite-depth water through reflected and trapped long waves. This explains how deep water waves acquire momentum as they approach shore. The artificial form of the parameterized forcing from the wind facilitates the thought experiments considered in this paper, as opposed to striving to model more realistic wind forcing scenarios.

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arXiv2024

Momentum, energy and vorticity balances in deep-water surface gravity waves

The particle trajectories in irrotational, incompressible and inviscid deep-water surface gravity waves are open, leading to a net drift in the direction of wave propagation commonly referred to as the Stokes Drift, which is responsible for catalysing surface wave-induced mixing in the ocean and transporting marine debris. A balance between phase-averaged momentum density, kinetic energy density and vorticity for irrotational, monochromatic and periodic two-dimensional water waves is derived by working directly within the Lagrangian reference frame, which tracks particle trajectories as a function of their labels and time. This balance should be expected as all three of these quantities are conserved following particles in this system. Vorticity in particular is always conserved along particles in two-dimensional inviscid flow, and as such even in its absence it is the value of the vorticity which fundamentally sets the drift, which in the Lagrangian frame is identified as the phase-averaged momentum density of the system. A relationship between the drift and the geometric mean water level of particles is found at the surface and applications for potential new ways of inferring drift are discussed. Finally, an example of an initially quiescent fluid driven by a wavelike pressure disturbance is considered, showing how the net momentum and energy from the surface disturbance transfer to the wave field, recognizing the source of the mean Lagrangian drift as the net momentum required to generate an irrotational surface wave by any conservative force.

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arXiv2023

Transition to turbulence in wind-drift layers

A light breeze rising over calm water initiates an intricate chain of events that culminates in a centimeters-deep turbulent shear layer capped by gravity-capillary ripples. At first, viscous stress accelerates a laminar wind-drift layer until small surface ripples appear. Then a second "wave-catalyzed" instability grows in the wind-drift layer, before sharpening into along-wind jets and downwelling plumes, and finally devolving into three-dimensional turbulence. This paper elucidates the evolution of wind-drift layers after ripple inception using wave-averaged numerical simulations with a random initial condition and a constant-amplitude representation of the incipient surface ripples. Our model reproduces qualitative aspects of laboratory measurements similar those reported by Veron & Melville (2001), validating the wave-averaged approach. But we also find that our results are disturbingly sensitive to the amplitude of the prescribed surface wave field, raising the question whether wave-averaged models are truly "predictive" if they do not also describe the evolution of the coupled evolution of the surface waves together with the flow beneath.

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arXiv2023

Two-dimensional flow on the sphere

Equilibrium statistical mechanics predicts that inviscid, two-dimensional, incompressible flow on the sphere eventually reaches a state in which spherical harmonic modes of degrees $n=1$ and $n=2$ hold all the energy. By a separate theory, such flow is static in a reference frame rotating at angular speed $2\Omega/3$ with respect to the inertial frame. The vorticity field in the static frame is an accident of the initial conditions, but, once established, it lasts forever under the stated assumptions. We investigate the possibility of such behavior with a stereographic-coordinate model that conserves energy and enstrophy when the viscosity vanishes.

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arXiv2021

Particle description of the interaction between wave packets and point vortices

This paper explores an idealized model of the ocean surface in which widely separated surface-wave packets and point vortices interact in two horizontal dimensions. We start with a Lagrangian which, in its general form, depends on the \emph{fields} of wave action, wave phase, stream function, and two additional fields that label and track the vertical component of vorticity. By assuming that the wave action and vorticity are confined to infinitesimally small, widely separated regions of the flow, we obtain model equations that are analogous to, but significantly more general than, the familiar system consisting solely of point vortices. We analyze stable and unstable harmonic solutions, solutions in which wave packets eventually coincide with point vortices (violating our assumptions), and solutions in which the wave vector eventually blows up. Additionally, we show that a wave packet induces a net drift on a passive vortex in the direction of wave propagation which is equivalent to Darwin drift. Generalizing our analysis to many wave packets and vortices, we examine the influence of wave packets on an otherwise unstable vortex street and show analytically, according to linear stability analysis, that the wave packet induced drift can stabilize the vortex street. The system is then numerically integrated for long times and an example is shown in which the configuration remains stable, which may be particularly relevant for the upper ocean.

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