Modelling of ocean waves with the Alber equation: application to non-parametric spectra and generalization to crossing seas

Agissilaos Athanassoulis; Odin Gramstad

Home/Archive/arXiv

arXiv · 2105.00102

Modelling of ocean waves with the Alber equation: application to non-parametric spectra and generalization to crossing seas

Agissilaos Athanassoulis·Odin Gramstad

View original source ↗Read source document ↗Export metadata ↓

Abstract

The Alber equation is a phase-averaged second-moment model for the statistics of a sea state, which recently has been attracting renewed attention. We extend it in two ways: firstly, we derive a generalized Alber system starting from a system of nonlinear Schr\"odinger equations, which contains the classical Alber equation as a special case but can also describe crossing seas, i.e. two wavesystems with different wavenumbers crossing. (These can be two completely independent wavenumbers, i.e. in general different directions and different moduli.) We also derive the associated 2-dimensional scalar instability condition. This is the first time that a modulation instability condition applicable to crossing seas has been systematically derived for general spectra. Secondly, we use the classical Alber equation and its associated instability condition to quantify how close a given non-parametric spectrum is to being modulationally unstable. We apply this to a dataset of 100 non-parametric spectra provided by the Norwegian Meteorological Institute, and find the vast majority of realistic spectra turn out to be stable, but three extreme sea states are found to be unstable (out of 20 sea states chosen for their severity). Moreover, we introduce a novel "proximity to instability" (PTI) metric, inspired by the stability analysis. This is seen to correlate strongly with the steepness and Benjamin-Feir Index (BFI) for the sea states in our dataset (>85% Spearman rank correlation). Furthermore, upon comparing with phase-resolved broadband Monte Carlo simulations, the kurtosis and probability of rogue waves for each sea state are also seen to correlate well with its PTI (>85% Spearman rank correlation).

Explore related subjects

math.AP

Keep this discovery

BibTeX RIS

Agissilaos Athanassoulis, Odin Gramstad. 2021-04-30. Modelling of ocean waves with the Alber equation: application to non-parametric spectra and generalization to crossing seas. https://arxiv.org/abs/2105.00102

Cite the original work for its findings. Save a collection to share your selection of sources.

KEEP EXPLORING

Related papers

arXiv2026

Well-posedness of the two-dimensional unsteady Prandtl system in Sobolev space with degenerate critical points

This paper is devoted to the well-posedness of classical Prandtl equations in a finite order Sobolev space. For a initial data with degenerate critical points and general outflow, we obtain the local-in-time existence and uniqueness of the solution to the Prandtl equations in a Sobolev space, by introducing a new iteration scheme and linear cancelation. This result shows that Oleinik's monotonicity condition is not a necessary condition for the Prandtl equations to be well-posed in Sobolev spaces and provides evidence to demonstrate that zero shear stress does not necessarily lead to boundary layer separation in two-dimensional unsteady boundary layers.

math.AP↗

arXiv2026

Global existence and time decay for a bipolar Euler-Poisson system with one pressureless and undamped fluid

We study the Cauchy problem for a three-dimensional bipolar Euler--Poisson system in which one fluid is pressureless and undamped, while the other is subject to momentum relaxation. For sufficiently small smooth perturbations of a constant equilibrium, we prove the global existence and uniqueness of smooth solutions under an irrotationality assumption on the initial velocity of the pressureless fluid, together with algebraic time-decay estimates. The main difficulty is that the velocity of the pressureless fluid is dissipated only indirectly through the Poisson coupling, and this mechanism degenerates strongly at high frequencies, leading to a regularity-loss structure. We overcome this difficulty by combining refined Green-function estimates, a low--middle--high frequency decomposition, and high-order nonlinear energy estimates adapted to the asymmetric regularity hierarchy. The result establishes a global small-data theory for this asymmetric regime, in which pressure and damping are simultaneously absent from the same fluid.

math.AP↗

arXiv2026

Boundary layer of 2D Chemotaxis Navier-Stokes equations with logarithmic Sensitivity. II. viscous vanishing limit

This is the second part of a two-part work concerning boundary layer solutions to the coupled Chemotaxis-Navier-Stokes system in the two-dimensional half-space. In the present work, we address the convergence of boundary layer solutions to singular chemotaxis-fluid equations under slip boundary conditions with respect to the chemical diffusion-viscosity parameter $\varepsilon$ in the two-dimensional half-plane. More precisely, we show that the boundary layer for $\varepsilon>0$ (viscous convection coefficient) converges to the superposition of the outer layer (solution with $\varepsilon=0$) and the inner layer as $\varepsilon\rightarrow0$. The outer and inner profiles are explicitly derived as in the first part\cite{WWZ}. Furthermore, the well-posedness results of the coupled Chemotaxis-Navier-Stokes system in conormal Sobolev spaces will be presented in Appendix. They answer the question mentioned in the first part of the two-part work. This study could help the understanding of the chemotactic movement of aerobic bacteria to the water-air surface observed experimentally in fluids, and enrich the theoretical results of boundary layer in chemotactic fluid models.

math.AP↗